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Saturday, November 28, 2015

Seven Second Top Speed R32 GT-R in Car Video




This was a bit of a wild ride. The Top Speed R32 GT-R from the Ukraine, on a pretty bumpy airstrip, running a mid seven second pass. 184 mph in the quarter.  Air shifted trans.

Drag East European Championship in Vinniza, Ukraine.
1.26 - 60ft time
ET 7.663
trap 296 kph / 184 mph
It was crazy scary run!


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Tuesday, November 24, 2015

NISSFEST 2015 at Auto Club Speedway In Fontana

NISMO N-Attack R35 GT-R built by STILLEN
Our original plan was to run NISMO #500 at NISSfest 2015 at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana on November 21, 2015, but work got in the way.  Since we weren't going to run the R32 GT-R, we were going to give it a pass.  However since we are so close to Fontana, we decided to have a booth in the vendor area.  Amy from Automotive Forums was in town, it seemed like a good time to bring out the R34 N1 Super Taikyu - World Challenge race car.  Its been nearly 10 years since the car ran in anger. Its been about a year since it even saw the light of day.  Although we didn't run the car on the track, this time, the plan is to prep it to be at least track ready.

The R34 is one of two that were imported as race cars, with full NHTSA and EPA approval. For more information on that process - read here -

For more information on how to import vehicles over 25 years old to the US, check out International Vehicle Importers. 


Automotive Forums.com R34 N1 race car
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N-Attack R35

N-Attack R35 fender

N-Attack R35 wing

Thursday, November 19, 2015

First California Legal Nissan Skyline GT-R In the 25 Year Old Car Era


Now California Legal Nissan Skyline GT-R
International Vehicle Importers from Ontario, California, along with G&K Automotive Conversions, and California Environmental Engineering (CEE) from Santa Ana, California are proud to announce the first California legal R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R in the over 25 year old vehicle era.

In the early 2000's, G&K and CEE brought cars into California compliance for the now defunct MotoRex.  Now that 1989, 1990, and soon 1991 Nissan Skyline GT-R's are over 25 years old, they are legal to import to the US. They are exempt from FMVSS at 25 and EPA exempt at 21 years old, so many have recently been legally imported. However, since California has its own EPA, the ARB, legally owning these cars in California has been near impossible, or illegal.

Now with this partnership, fully California legal Nissan Skyline GT-R's will be available for sale from importavehicle.com starting at $30,000.  These cars, once they under go modifications and pass ARB testing, are treated the same as any vehicle of the same year for smog testing. They get smogged every 2 years like any other vehicle.

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BAR label for a 1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R. The bar code, on the BAR label can be scanned at any smog shop

Not only can we do Nissan Skyline GT-R's, it is possible to bring other vehicles into California compliance.   Anything from Toyota Soarer's, to Nissan Figaro's. Modifications and testing costs for each car are different. Email or call us for more information. sales@importavehicle.com or 844-523-2233  http://www.importavehicle.com

Smog test results - California legal 1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R



California compliant 1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R




Monday, November 16, 2015

HICAS and the R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R



HICAS.  Super HICAS. Four Wheel steering. 4WS. People say all kinds of things.  The R32 GT-R technically has Super HICAS on it. Its a hydraulic mechanical four wheel steering system.  The OEM power steering pump has 2 stages. One for the front steering rack, and a rear stage for the rear steering rack.

Not a lot of people like the system. It can fault. It can leak. It sometimes does odd things. When the rear wheels steer it can be a bit unsettling.  The system is very similar to the 300ZX system. Also it can be found on a number of other Nissans.


The original purpose was to help with handling, and even low speed maneuvering. At higher speeds the rear wheels turn in the direction of the front wheels, making things like lane changes a little easier. At low speeds they turn counter, allowing the vehicle to have a tighter turning radius.


You can see in the above diagram, the rear wheels on turn in, go counter the front wheels. This helps to rotate the rear end of the car. They then turn in the direction of the front wheels to try and keep everything in line.


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Self Diagnostic Procedure and HICAS trouble codes

The system.


R32 GT-R Super Hicas specifications



OEM R32 GT-R Steering Wheel



Notice the square cut outs for the HICAS sensor.  There are two different OEM center points. Know what you have
R32 GT-R Power Steering pump. Front side is for front rack. Rear side is for HICAS rack
Rear steering rack. HICAS rack. Rear wheel steering
R32 GT-R Super HICAS electrical system diagram

How to Bleed Super Hicas without a Consult.



Aftermarket steering wheel with HICAS boss




Friday, November 13, 2015

Push vs Pull Clutch : Nissan Skyline GT-R Clutches


What style of clutch is this? 
Here is a question we get fairly often.  Push vs Pull clutch. What is the difference? What type of clutch is on my car? Why did Nissan switch from push to pull clutch? Why are most aftermarket clutches push?

If you are like us, at one point in your Skyline GT-R life, you needed a clutch. A couple too many 8,000 rpm off the limiter launches, and whatever is in there is done.  So you look up clutches, and pick one out, but the question comes up, is it a push or pull?

Push or pull refers to the action to release the clutch.  A push clutch, does just that, pushes on the disk cover or diaphragm, to release pressure on the disks, so the center is disengaged from the engine. A pull clutch pulls on the diaphragm to release pressure on the disks.

The early Nissan Skyline GT-R's are all push clutches.  You can identify the clutch itself by the clutch cover.  If it has open fingers, then its a push. If it has a ring, then its a pull.

Push style clutch. This is a Tilton carbon/carbon triple plate for a Nissan Skyline GT-R
Pull style clutch. This Nismo is made by Exedy, a twin plate, and in this case for a Getrag transmission

So which is better?  This is what Daikin/ Exedy has to say about push vs pull


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So why isn't every clutch pull? Some of it is complexity. Costs. What we have also heard, is it is because of patents. Daikin/ Exedy has the patents on the technology, so not everyone uses it.  I have seen people drill holes in their bell housing to release a pull style clutch. If the transmission comes off the engine, and stops hard at about an inch, then you probably need to release the throw out bearing. Its really not that hard. Watch the video below for instructions.

How to remove a pull style throwout bearing in a late R32,R33, or R34 Nissan Skyline GT-R transmission. Watch the video. Its easy when you know how. 

How do you identify what clutch actuation your car has in it? If your car is a 1989-1992, then it should be a push style clutch.   Later than February 3rd, 1993, it should be a pull clutch. Key words always being "SHOULD".While it is possible to change push to pull and vice versa, its not something you want to figure out when the car is on a lift.

02/03/'93 Minor change Late model. V-spec added
Rear diff cover fin removed
Clutch modified (push -> pull)
Synchronizers modified
Brembo caliper added(V-spec)
ETS program modified(V-spec)
Tires changed (V-spec: 225/50-17)
BBS mesh special wheel (V-spec)
# N1 model gets to based on V-spec

As with anything on a car that is over 20 years old, it has probably had a clutch change at some point. So its always best to check.  Follow the pictures below for some help identifying what you have.
Late R32 bellhousing. This has bosses for push and pull clutch. It is currently a push clutch, or early. 


Getrag with a conversion kit for an ATS carbon clutch
In the above picture, the slave cylinder is on the backside of the shift fork.  As originally placed this is a pull clutch. Now with the slave flipped to the new position, this becomes a push clutch actuation. .



Some of the R32/R33 bellhousings have bosses/are drilled for both style slave cylinders.
Pull clutch slave cylinder. Also clutch dampening loop is partially visible. 

The parts required for a pull to push conversion.

Clutch Pull to push conversion-
Late Model R32, R33
Front cover assembly :32110-05U11 (japan part only)
Gasket :32112-05U12
Clutch fork :30531-01S00 (same part for a 1991-1993 240SX)
Spring :30514-14600
Spring :30534-E9000
T/O bearing :30502-14601
Bearing sleeve:30501-S0160 / 30501-N1601 (14mm for twin / trip disc)
Bearing sleeve: 30501-K0404 (24mm for single disc)
Dust cover :30542-31610
Slave cylinder :30620-21U01
Flywheel bolt: 12315-04U00

 In addition to push and pull clutch actuation via slave cylinder and fork, there are also converters sold that go inside the trans, and hydraulic release (slave) bearings.

OS Giken clutch actuation conversion kit



Getrag converted to push clutch actuation

Getrag converted to push clutch actuation



Another push style triple plate clutch. 


Front cover. Notice the fork pivot. Its a ball on early R32.



Factory Clutch
R32 GTR(There are early and late R32, so double check this)
Disc- C0100-05U15
Cover-30210 - 05U01
Bearing- 30502-21000
R33 GTS
Disc- 30100-21U01
Cover- 30210-21U00
Throw out bearing- 30502-12U00 (300ZX part) or 30502-45P00 (300ZX part)
Bearing Sleeve- 30501-S0200 (18mm)
R33 GTR
Disc- 30100-0V708
Cover- 30210-24U00
Bearing- 30502-12U00
R34 GTR
Disc- 30100-0V708
Cover-30210 - AA300
Bearing- 30502-12U00


Throw Out Bearing Sleeves


Depending on what clutch, and flywheel you are running, you may need a new throw out bearing sleeve for the early, push style clutches. The height listed is from the front side of the fork to the seat position of the bearing.

30501-22102 8mm
30501-B5000 10mm
30501-A3800 12mm
30501-N1601 14mm
30501-U0200 16mm
30501-S0200 18mm
30501-B6000 20mm
30501-S0160 22mm
30501-K0404 24mm
30501-K0510 26mm
30501-N1600 28mm
30501-N8400 30mm



NISMO R32 GT-R Clutch Change Time Lapse Video.

Tuesday, November 10, 2015

ATTESA - The Nissan Skyline GT-R All Wheel Drive System

Does not actually have ATTESA. Fast and Furious 4 buggy car.  Video here
So, how much do you really know about ATTESA. Its kind of an odd name. Its Nissan's name for their all wheel drive system, first showing up around 1987. Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All-Terrain or ATTESA. You will also see it called ATTESA ETS, and a version called ATTESA ETS-Pro. ETS for electronic torque split.  ETS Pro is the more advanced system, seen on the R33, and R34 Vspec.

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Some people, many people think that the R32,R33, R34 GT-R have a switch that allows the car to be rear wheel drive only, as part of the all wheel drive system.  Other people say, how can you dyno it rear wheel drive?, or how is that all wheel drive GT-R doing burnouts?.  So here are some truths.

1) No R32,R33, or R34 GT-R came from the factory with a switch to turn off all wheel drive. It is possible to pull a fuse, disconnect a wire, or trick the system into going rear wheel drive only, its not a factory on/off switch. There are aftermarket controllers, or some people wire in their own switch, but its not from the Nissan factory. Not talking about GTS4, or R35 GT-R, just R32,R33,R34 GT-R.

2)It is not difficult to remove drive to the front wheels by either pulling the ATTESA fuse (R32) or pulling the front propshaft (R32,R33,R34).  Even though you can just pull the fuse on an R32, if you are going for extended dyno runs, where the front wheels are static, with the rear wheels moving up to 150 mph, we HIGHLY recommend pulling the front propshaft. Its 6 bolts to remove, and your transfercase clutches will survive much longer. If you pull the fuse on an R33 or R34, the system defaults, and puts about 10% load to the clutchpack with backup power. This slight lockup causes a huge amount of heat if you run the car on the dyno. You will destroy your ATTESA clutchpack if you do this.

ATTESA System Overview Technical Document


Some pictures of the ATTESA system transfercase internals.

Infiniti FX35 clutch pack on the left. R34 clutch pack on the right

Transfercase chain, clutchpack, and front drive gear from an R34 transfercase

The R34 transfercase chain, and gear is a little smaller than the R32/R33. Check out this VIDEO for some comparisons.

Part Numbers for the ATTESA system

R32 GT-R

Accumulator 41630-20U00 (Fits R32, through R34)

Common Problems

There are several areas you can have problems with the ATTESA system.  Please don't confuse ATTESA- the all wheel drive system, with the HICAS- all wheel steering. Seen many new owners ask about removing ATTESA, when they actually meant HICAS.  The ATTESA system is also tied into the ABS system, so an ABS fault will trigger an ATTESA light under most conditions.

If you get an ATTESA warning light on the instrument cluster here are a few things to check first.

1) Check the fluid level on the ATTESA header tank in the trunk. Its located on the right side rear, Its a small tank, that has a level sensor.



2) Check your tire condition and height. The wrong sized wheels and tires, or worn tires, can and will throw an ATTESA code. More information - Can I run different sized wheels and tires on my Skyline GT-R. 

3) A few ways to check the code. The ATTESA ECU is in the trunk, and it has a window in it. In the window is an LED light. The LED light will blink to the fault/code. The codes for each car are a little different. The codes between the normal cars, and the Vspec or ATTESA ETS Pro cars are a little different. Pay attention, because paying attention doesn't cost anything.

ATTESA ECU in the trunk of an R32. LED window visible on right rear corner


R32 GT-R ATTESA Codes

1 Right front wheel speed sensor or circuit
2 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit
3 Right rear wheel speed sensor or circuit
4 Left rear wheel speed sensor or circuit

5 ABS right front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
6 ABS front front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
7 ABS rear wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
8 ABS actuator motor, motor relay or circuit
9 ABS actuator relay or circuit

10 ETS control unit power supply or circuit
11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit
12 Fore-and-aft G sensor 2 or circuit
13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G sensor 2
14 G sensor power supply 1 or circuit
15 G sensor power supply 2 or circuit
16 Lateral G sensor or circuit

17 Air bleed connector or circuit
18 ETS pressure switch or circuit
           Troubleshooting Code 18 R32 GT-R
19 ETS motor, motor relay or circuit
20 ETS solenoid or circuit
21 Throttle sensor or circuit
22 ETS oil level switch or circuit
24 ETS control unit, ground or circuit

ATTESA Electrical Diagram ; R32 GT-R




Self Diagnosis Procedure R33(GTR and Vspec) and R34(GT-R) not Vspec

1)Drive vehicle at 30 km/hr for at least 1 minute. Bring vehicle to a full stop. Do not turn off engine. Look at LED at top of control unit (red lamp). Note the number of times it blinks ON and OFF.

If two or more systems are malfunctioning, all warning lamps will blink ON and OFF

2) After completing required maintenance procedures, be sure to erase results of self diagnosis testing from memory


3) Once again drive vehicle at 30 km/hr for at least 1 minute. Check that the 4wd warning lamp and ABS warning lamp are off.

R33 GT-R ATTESA  and ATTESA Pro Codes
1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit
2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit
3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit
4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit

11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit
12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit
13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit
15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit
16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit
17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit
34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit
41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit
43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit
47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit
51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit

53,54 Pressure switch and circuit
55 Air bleed switch and circuit
56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit

61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit
62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit
63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit
64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit
65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit
66 Side G sensor and circuit

75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor



Self Diagnostic Procedure R34 GT-R

1. Drive vehicle at approx. 30 km/h for approx. 1 minute

2. Stop vehicle and start diagnosis

3. Turn ignition switch "OFF"

4. Ground the self diagnostic terminal 4

5. Turn the ignition switch " ON" to start the self diagnostic results mode

CAUTION

KEEP terminal 4 grounded during self diagnosis

Do not depress brake pedal (Self diagnosis would not start)

Do not start engine (Self diagnosis would not start)

6. After 3 or 4 seconds, ABS warning lamp starts blinking to indicate the malfunction code


R34 GT-R ATTESA Codes
1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit
2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit
3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit
4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit

11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit
12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit
13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit
15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit
16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit
17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit
31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit

34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit
41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit
43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit
45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit
47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit

51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit
53,54 Pressure switch and circuit
55 Air bleed switch and circuit
56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit

61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit
62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit
63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit
64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit
65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit
66 Side G sensor and circuit

75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor



R34 GT-R ATTESA Pro Codes

21 Front right wheel sensor (open circuit)
22 Front right wheel sensor (short - circuit)
25 Front left wheel sensor (open circuit)
26 Front left wheel sensor (short circuit)
31 Rear right wheel sensor (short circuit)
32 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit)
35 Rear left wheel sensor (open circuit)
36 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit)

41 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit
42 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit
45 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit
46 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit
55 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit
56 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

57 Battery voltage
61 ABS actuator motor and motor relay circuit
63 ABS acutuator relay circuit

64 FR & RR G sensor 1
65 FR & RR G sensor 2
66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2
68 G sensor voltage
69 Side G sensor voltage

71 ATTESA E_TS PRO/ABS control unit and circuit
72 Throttle position sensor
73,74 E-TS/LSD actuator motor

76,77 Pressure switch
78 Air bleed switch
79 Oil level switch

91,92,93 E-TS solenoid
94,95,96 E-TS fail safe solenoid
97,98,99 LSD solenoid

How to Erase Self Diagnosis results - R33 - R34

1) Remove cables from battery terminals. Also remove ETS/ABS control unit connectors.


More Information About the Nissan Skyline GT-R ATTESA System



Monday, November 09, 2015

HKS High Deck RB26 2.8 Liter Block for Sale on eBay

HKS High Deck Block 2.8 liter RB26

This is something you don't see come up for sale much. A supposed 1 of 20 HKS High Deck RB26.  Bid on it on eBay here - for the next 22 days. 


This auction is for a 2.8L HKS Hi-Deck block for the RB26DETT GTR. This is a fully assembled bottom end still in original crate and wrapping. It has only been opened once to take photos and check the condition. It has been properly stored and is in brand new condition.
The HKS Hi-Deck crate motor has a HKS Racing Block, HKS forged pistons, HKS billet long stroke conrods, HKS billet crankshaft, HKS main and rod bearings, HKS spacer plate, etc. (All custom made) The block has been reinforced and had the water jackets filled.
The block will work in any R32, R33, or R34 GTR running an RB26DETT as the blocks are interchangeable.
These were produced in the early 2000’s after the success of the HKS R33 drag car, which ran a 7s 1/4 mile. The block is good for 1500hp and can rev to 13,000RPM. All other GTR’s that have run this motor have cracked 7 or 8s passes. These blocks are as rare as you can get in the GTR scene.
HKS only ever produced 20 of these RB28 engine blocks. To name a few cars which have featured this engine have been: HKS R33 GTR drag car; Endless R GTR; Sumo Power R33 GTR; SVA R34 GTR; GTC GTR; Jonah Lomu’s R34 GTR. (All world famous within the GTR community)
Inside the crate is the official paperwork done by HKS.


We wrote about this block a while back. The elusive HKS “high deck” block. It appears to be only a sleeved and deck plated block. They probably run a long rod in it to make some more torque. This was supposedly the block in the 7 second HKS Drag R33. There are a couple guys in the UK running it, and a few of the more serious drag GT-R’s in Japan.  http://www.gtrusablog.com/2008/12/os-giken-rb30-os-giken-rb31-nissan-rb30.html


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