The following is some information on the stock and aftermarket turbos available for the Nissan Skyline GT-R , and Nissan GT-R. R32, R33, R34, R35 as they are often referred, being the chassis codes. R32, R33, R34, R35
Above about 1.1 bar (16 psi) the stock RB26 turbos have a tendency to break the exhaust wheel off. People have gone low 12's, high 11's on the stock turbos, but not for long. Stock peak boost R32 is about 0.8(11.5 psi) , R33 0.9(13 psi), R34 1.0 (14.5 psi).
Steel wheel on the left, ceramic on the right. Notice the shape of the "nut" on the end
Product: RB26DETT Engine Parts - R1 Turbo Kit Part Num: 1441A-RSR45
SPECIFICATIONS: Compressor: - Housing: T3 (A/R 0.42) - Wheel: T3 (trim 55) Bearing: Ball bearing Turbine: - Housing: T25 (A/R 0.64) - Wheel : GT25 (trim 62) Actuator: Reinforced spring, adjustable rod Max. efficiency: 73% Max. air pressure ratio (at boost pressure): 103% (1.35kg/cm2) Designed output: 280PS(2)
PRODUCT NOTES: - For Skyline GT-R (BNR34) vehicles for N1 racing- Reinforced actuator set included (nozzle opening pressure: 635mm Hg/0.33mm, 760mm Hg/4.0mm)- One vehicle set (two turbo units)/exchange gaskets/necessary piping - Use of this product requires adjustment of boost pressure and engine control unit before use.
A Billet Compressor Wheel compared to a Cast Compressor Wheel offers NO GAIN in performance by its material alone. Some have argued that they can be made lighter for better spool, or that they can be made with more aggressive fin designed due to there better sheer strength. While that MIGHT be true, we have seen no conclusive evidence or study that has proven this so we have to rule it out for now and say it’s NOT FACTUAL even though it MIGHT be true.
Billet wheels CAN, again that is CAN, perform better. Because they can be a low production run of wheels, there flow and performance can be tailored to running a specific pressure ratio (PR) or to have a certain amount of peak flow, or surge line capability, or be able to jump on new blade design technology faster since there is no need to delay the technology getting to market because of setting up machining and tooling.
Inserting type inside diameter φ 73, major diameter φ 90.5
25
High silicon
-
-
-
AX75F92
STD
Floating metal
West gate
730
50
65
92
φ 100
φ 60
17.8
89
74.1
70
T4 and 1 port
Inserting type inside diameter φ 73, major diameter φ 90.5
25
High silicon
-
-
-
* As for the AX53B series turbine specification differs each every kit.
The RX6B series has set conformity turbine size each every kit.
Each commodity concerning details please inquire.
The following charts below are in no means scientific. They are done on different days, different cars, different setups. What we are looking at is overall ideas.
Many different turbos. Points picked from dyno charts and plotted
Same chart broken out to several old single turbo setups.
R35 GT-R
Standard
Spec V
HKS-TF
COMP
Trim
60T
60T
64T
IN（mm）
43.4
46.5
46.5
OUT（mm）
56
60
60
Number of blades
12
12
12
EXH
Trim
57T
82T
57T
IN（mm）
53
53
53
OUT（mm）
39.8
48
39.8
Number of blades
9
11
9 + cutback
edit-I am not sure this is the standard GT-R turbo, it specs out more like the SpecV turbocharger
Uses an IHI turbo, with an integrated exhaust manifold.
IHI RHF55 same as MY06 STi Impreza
Turbocharger Type RHF55 Turbine Blade no. 11 Compressor Blade no. 6 + 6 Turbine Rotor Size 53mm / 48mm Compressor Rotor Size 60mm / 46.5mm Max. Turbine Speed 165000 rpm Wastegate Open Press. 78 kPa A/R Ratio 15 Compressor seal material Synthetic mica + Teflon Bearing Type Floating Metal Bearing
GT42R R32 Nissan GT-R
13 comments:
Anonymous
said...
Hi Sean! What would you recommend between the two, Garett -7, -5, or -9 on an RB26 stock bottom with 87mm N1 pistons non-forged, & Nismo oil pump? Can upgrade to Tomei poncams if needed. Ready parts are Nismo MAFs, and Nismo Fuel Pump. As for the injectors maybe I will go 800cc.
Just wondering what is the best choice among these good turbos. Car will not be a race car, just a weekend warrior with track days. I have heard -7 has the best response but will lack power up top. My goal is to reach 500hp at a very safe tune.
Thanks Sean! By the way, sorry for the typo its three not "between the two". he he. So -5s it is. But are cams essential for the setup or optional only? Was planning to go Nistune. They're also good right? Yep head room is always nice so 1000cc is good. ;)
Oh is it true they're laggy? Someone recommends -9 they say its not as laggy, and its like a cross between -5 and -7. But maybe its not good if its around 2.6 displacement only. BTW, I also have a 1.2mm Nismo gasket ready. :)
Which reminds me, are there more GT-R BNR32s now in the U.S since its already 2015? I have heard parts demands are on a rise now.
You don't need cams, but in my experience cams help everywhere. You don't "need" them, but they are worth probably 20 hp in a small build. RB is already a small displacement car, so a big cam doesn't hurt area under the curve.
Nistune is a good box. Check out some of my videos on Youtube. The new Feature Pack includes a two step and E85 compatibility.
I don't have any experience with the -9, must be like a 2510. We ran N1, 2510, and 2530 on the R34 race car. If you check out my "Turbolag" post, I put up a bunch of different dyno charts. https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/turbolag
You can tune around the lack of low end to a point.
More and more R32 every day. I have been importing them under - http://www.importavehicle.com Two more R32 arrived last week. Couple more on the water. More in Japan. About 4 at our local shop, and 8 at our Washington location.
I presume those 32s you've mentioned are BNR32 / GTR ones not lower variants which we usually see on drift events. Have asked this coz I have a friend back in the U.S that sells parts, and I remember him saying demands are rising for RB26 and GTR32 parts. Good luck on the importing Sean! And thanks so much for the tip! I can imagine now after a few more years the GTR scene will boom in America. :)
Good day Tyndago! The other night when we were doing some spirited driving with friends, on the last corner we noticed it strangely lost power. Doesn't pull and no BOV sound. So I didn't force it and let off the pedal. Tried again, and still no boost. Didn't noticed any "bang" that bad turbos are said to do. We just drove the car slowly back in the garage and didn't try to race it again. Car idles fine, nothing really that strange. Any suggestion Sean where we should look at first? Or things to look at and diagnose?
Two possibles. You popped an intercooler pipe off. So check that carefully. Normally that does effect the idle. The next would be see if you lost an exhaust wheel off one of the turbos. First check those pipes though. They run through the fenders so some of them are hard to see.
Noob question, but we wanted to replace the ceramic turbos with steel ones for security. Can we just put N1 Turbos (or maybe even -5s) on there call it a day without a new tune?? Was thinking N1s is possible since it's on the same factory RB26s...
Thank you Sean for the quick reply! :) Well, we just asked because as much as possible we want to keep it stock-ish so N1s popped into mind. GT-R has low mileage that's why we really don't want to touch it that much. Hehe.
Buy USA Legal R32, R33, and R34 Skylines at Toprank Importers! When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network
%5B2%5D.jpg "turbo (1)")
13 comments:
Hi Sean! What would you recommend between the two, Garett -7, -5, or -9 on an RB26 stock bottom with 87mm N1 pistons non-forged, & Nismo oil pump? Can upgrade to Tomei poncams if needed. Ready parts are Nismo MAFs, and Nismo Fuel Pump. As for the injectors maybe I will go 800cc.
Just wondering what is the best choice among these good turbos. Car will not be a race car, just a weekend warrior with track days. I have heard -7 has the best response but will lack power up top. My goal is to reach 500hp at a very safe tune.
Thanks and all the best!
500 is a perfect spot for a -5/2530.
Injectors 800-1000 cc. 800 is well enough, I just generally do 1000 cc as they run fine on them, and gives you a ton of headroom.
-7 cranked up will only do about 450 whp on a 2.6, stock cams/head engine.
Thanks Sean! By the way, sorry for the typo its three not "between the two". he he. So -5s it is. But are cams essential for the setup or optional only? Was planning to go Nistune. They're also good right? Yep head room is always nice so 1000cc is good. ;)
Oh is it true they're laggy? Someone recommends -9 they say its not as laggy, and its like a cross between -5 and -7. But maybe its not good if its around 2.6 displacement only. BTW, I also have a 1.2mm Nismo gasket ready. :)
Which reminds me, are there more GT-R BNR32s now in the U.S since its already 2015? I have heard parts demands are on a rise now.
Thanks again!
You don't need cams, but in my experience cams help everywhere. You don't "need" them, but they are worth probably 20 hp in a small build. RB is already a small displacement car, so a big cam doesn't hurt area under the curve.
Nistune is a good box. Check out some of my videos on Youtube. The new Feature Pack includes a two step and E85 compatibility.
I don't have any experience with the -9, must be like a 2510. We ran N1, 2510, and 2530 on the R34 race car. If you check out my "Turbolag" post, I put up a bunch of different dyno charts. https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/turbolag
You can tune around the lack of low end to a point.
More and more R32 every day. I have been importing them under - http://www.importavehicle.com Two more R32 arrived last week. Couple more on the water. More in Japan. About 4 at our local shop, and 8 at our Washington location.
I presume those 32s you've mentioned are BNR32 / GTR ones not lower variants which we usually see on drift events. Have asked this coz I have a friend back in the U.S that sells parts, and I remember him saying demands are rising for RB26 and GTR32 parts.
Good luck on the importing Sean! And thanks so much for the tip! I can imagine now after a few more years the GTR scene will boom in America. :)
Selling all kinds of cars. Not just GT-R. Some RX-7, Soarers, Landcruisers, Crown, etc. All types of Skylines too. From 4 doors to GT-R.
Good day Tyndago! The other night when we were doing some spirited driving with friends, on the last corner we noticed it strangely lost power. Doesn't pull and no BOV sound. So I didn't force it and let off the pedal. Tried again, and still no boost. Didn't noticed any "bang" that bad turbos are said to do. We just drove the car slowly back in the garage and didn't try to race it again. Car idles fine, nothing really that strange. Any suggestion Sean where we should look at first? Or things to look at and diagnose?
Thanks!
Two possibles. You popped an intercooler pipe off. So check that carefully. Normally that does effect the idle. The next would be see if you lost an exhaust wheel off one of the turbos. First check those pipes though. They run through the fenders so some of them are hard to see.
Noob question, but we wanted to replace the ceramic turbos with steel ones for security. Can we just put N1 Turbos (or maybe even -5s) on there call it a day without a new tune??
Was thinking N1s is possible since it's on the same factory RB26s...
You should always tune. You will get the most out of the car safely with a tune.
Thank you Sean for the quick reply! :) Well, we just asked because as much as possible we want to keep it stock-ish so N1s popped into mind. GT-R has low mileage that's why we really don't want to touch it that much. Hehe.
Hello, could someone tell me what gtr version 14411-24U04 is from?
Thanks
Rosie :)x
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