Buy USA Legal R32 and R34 Skylines at Importavehicle.com!

Wednesday, May 05, 2010

The Real Basics –Nissan Skyline GT-R , R32, R33, R34


edit 11/13/16
The Real Basics - Nissan Skyline GT-R , R32, R33, R34

Maintaining your new to you, just imported to the USA, Nissan Skyline GT-R. The first things you should have a look at. If you just bought a Nissan Skyline GT-R there are a few things you should check, and you should know before you go out and do too much drag racing, or running around the road course. This guide goes though a few of the basics for your RB26DETT. We originally wrote this back in 2000. Since then, we have updated a few things over the years, but there are always updates coming.  With 17 years of experiences with this platform,we have seen a lot. However there are always new and cool things out there.



If you are looking for an R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Buyers Guide, check this one out!

The R32, R33, and R34 GT-R's engines, suspension, and drivetrain are very similar. From 1989-2002 there were upgrades, but they were more evolutionary, than revolutionary. Nothing like say the R31 to R32, or the R34 to the R35.  RB26DETT, Super Hicas, ATTESA. Many parts can be interchanged between the cars easily.  A few can not, so make sure you double check, before you get that exhaust cam for an R34, to find it wont work on your R32/R33 engine. Many other parts of the cars interchange with other Nissans. From suspension arms, to brake parts.

RB26DETT Myths and Truths   | Advanced Notes | importavehicle.com | Buy-R.com | Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/R32



Calsonic Blue R32 GT-R. Over 25 years old, legally imported to the USA by importavehicle.com

1) Oil - 7.5W-30 recommended in Japan(R32). A good 10-30W synthetic is a  start for a street car. Oil Change/Filter change. Keep it happy. We have used Redline 15/50w or 10/30w full synthetic. We are on Royal Purple now, and seems to be working well for us. There are guys out there, that just go nuts over oil.  4.5 liters, stock. Filling it to the bump on the dipstick is generally considered acceptable. There are some crazy oil guys out there. Check Bob is the Oil guy if you want to go oil nuts.


2) Oil Filter - OEM 15208-60U00  OEM R32 - AY100-NS007 , K & N HP-2008, MOBIL M1-208 , WIX 51361 ,OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000

3) Fuel - 91 AKI(RON+MON/2) in California. Higher some places . You don't want to run anything less than the highest octane pump gas available. Japanese 100 octane, is not 100 AKI. Its about 95 AKI.  E85 has become popular the last few years for turbo cars. This is something we are going to be trying out soon. See how the old elements in the system react to it. There are some issues in not having E85 in a flex fuel format, where you can run a tank of E10 (aka pump gas) through it every now and then. E85 is also not always E85 but can range from about E70 to E90.


R33 Stock Airbox with feed
R33 air inlet to the stock airbox.
4) Air filter - If you are using the stock air box you can put a K& N part # 33-2031-2 OEM –16546 –V0100 or 16546-V0100 , Fram CA4309. Fits R32,R33 ,R34. Part of making power is Air in /Air out. I like using the stock air box. Most aftermarket filters manage to suck in a bit of hot air. Plus if you have to deal with the police in certain states, its better to look stock, than look modified.



5) Spark plugs - PFR6A-11 are the stock Nissan Skyline GTR plug made by NGK. PFR7A-11 are one heat range cooler, also from NGK.  You may want to tighten the plug gap up if you are going to up the boost. Stock gaps on these plugs are 1.1mm which is pretty wide for a spark plug.NGK Iridium's work well(BCPR7EIX).  With the NGK's we haven't had a problem. Check out this great video on diagnosing misfires. The issues with having the coils in the valley of the head, and covered, is they cook. I personally think that about 40% of peoples issues with misfires, are the coil harness cooking in the valley. 20% is probably spark leaking from the boot. 10% the plug. 10% the coil. 20% the ignitor, ecu, or CAS. It takes about 5000 less volts to arc a iridium plug vs a copper plug. So generally an iridium plug will help your ignition system last longer, and work less hard.



NGK Racing Dual fine wire spark plug
   
6) Fuel filter - Same as a 1996 Infiniti J30. Its a good idea to change it when you get the car. Its almost the same as a 300ZX filter, but the outlet has a 90 degree bend on the actual filter. G5237




 
7) Transmission fluid - Don't try and fill it though the gear shifter. Though the gear shifter is the transfer case . Get a good GL4 75-90. (We love Redline Shockproof Heavy).  The Getrag in the R34 uses its own special fluid, although we have used Redline ATF with success.





 

8) Front Differential - GL5 85-90



 
9) Rear Differential - LSD GL5 80-90



 
10) Transfercase - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D





11) ATTESA System - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D
12) Fluid Fill Levels for R32/R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R
 Engine Oil - 7.5 - 30 (10-30 for a street car, 15-50 on a track car) - 4.5 liters
Oil Filter - OEM 15208-60U00 , Fram PH3682 ,OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000
Cooling System - Approximately 9 liters. Gycol or Water?  Depends where you live.
Front Differential (F160) - GL5 85-90 1 liter - (1 quart)
Transmission fluid - Don't try and fill it though the gear shifter. Though the gear shifter is the transfer case .  GL4 75-90  4.1 liters (4.3 quarts)
Transfercase - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D 1.8 liters (1.9 quarts)
Rear Differential(R200) - LSD GL5 80-90 1.5 liter(1.5 quarts)

What needs to be upgraded , when ?




And to show you can't trust anything on the internet here is an identifier from NISMO.





Fuel injectors - 444cc at 42 psi in 1989, or 1990, or 1991. Its not 1989 anymore. Lets just say that each cc of injector - on a 6 cylinder car is good for 1 hp... So with the stock injectors we can make 444 hp at the motor.... its just an approximation , but its pretty close. The stock injectors are "yellow" tops. They are also low impedance(2 ohm), so there is a resistor pack located on the right side of the engine compartment. In the chart above you can see at 2.55 kg/cm2 (36 psi) of fuel pressure the injector flows about 440 cc. At 3.05 kg/cm2 (43 psi) of fuel pressure it flows about 485 cc.  At 3.55 kg/cm2(50 psi) it flows 525 cc.  Don't get too crazy with the fuel pressure. Your fuel pump relief valve might end the fun soon.

 
Fuel Pump - 195 L/hr . If its 25 years old, it might be a good idea to change it Nismo replacement is 276 l/hr . Apex'i Replacement is 276 l/hr. A great page on fuel pumps is the Stealth 316 page. Very detailed.





Stock R32 fuel pump rests in a small sump. Nismo pump top. Stock below.
 
Turbos - Above about 1.1 bar the stock ceramic exhaust wheels have a tendency to break the exhaust wheel off. People have gone low 12's, high 11's on the stock ceramic turbos, but not for long. Luckily the NISMO R32's came stock with all metal turbos.





 
Records for stock turbos. Stock peak boost R32 Skyline GT-R is about 0.8 , R33 0.9, R34 1.0. Need to go to a full metal turbo. HKS GT series are good turbos. We have also run Apex'i AX series turbos. The 2530's or 2860-5's are the way to go with the small GT series for about 450-500 whp on pump gas on a 2.6 liter engine.







Broken stock gtr turbo
Missing ceramic exhaust wheel

Oil pump - Early R32 has a narrow oil pump drive. Late R32/R33/R34 has a wider drive. The oil pump should be replaced if you plan on revving above 8,000 rpms. Some more information on oiling and oil pumps for the RB26.  Spline Drive upgrade for the RB26dett.



Tomei Oil Pump
Tomei Oil pump : The best wet sump RB26 oil pump



Clutch - The early Nissan Skyline GT-R's  clutches are push style actuation. The late 93 R32 up clutches are pull.  Push or pull refers to the action to release the clutch.  A push clutch, does just that, pushes on the disk cover or diaphragm, to release pressure on the disks, so the center is disengaged from the engine. A pull clutch pulls on the diaphragm to release pressure on the disks.

 You can identify the clutch itself by the clutch cover.  If it has open fingers, then its a push. If it has a ring, then its a pull. The stock Nissan clutches have gone low 12's, but in an R32. R33/R34 they give up pretty quickly. High 12's, slip them a few times, and they are done.At least a sturdy single plate. Nismo twin plate works well. HKS twin plate is fairly hard to drive , but you get used to it. It also makes a bit of noise. A triple plate is very difficult to drive in a street car. More information - http://www.gtrusablog.com/2015/11/push-vs-pull-clutch-nissan-skyline-gt-r.html



Pull style, or late NISMO clutch for an R34 GT-R.
 
MAF - The stock RB26 65mm MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensors are good for about 400 wheel horsepower. Above then they run out of range and max out their voltage.  A popular replacement(in 2000) is the Nissan 300ZX meters. A 300ZX uses one MAF - we double up for the GT-R.They are physically larger. More recently the R35 blade style MAF have become popular. With most stand alone engine management, most cars go to a MAP(Manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The thing about MAP based tuning is that the density of air is dependent on temperature and pressure. Some ECU's swap over to MAP based load, but with the ITB's, it can be a difficult thing to tune for part throttle.





Large Sebrab oil cooler being fitted to an R32
Oil Cooler - The stock cars run an oil/water heat exchanger. Its a good idea if you are going to go on a track, or do any high speed driving with the car to put an external oil cooler on the car. On a track, it only takes a few laps in cool outside temps to get the oil temps above the 110C range. As important as the cooler itself, is the ducting to and though the cooler core.





ARC oil cooler on a Super Taikyu R34 GT-R






Camshafts - Stock the RB26DETT camshafts are 240/236 duration 8.58/8.28 mm of lift. If your aftermarket camshaft has more than 9.1 mm of lift, the head needs clearance around the lifter bucket due to the height of the camshaft lobe. Small cams will generally see at least 20 whp, and will generally also pickup response. Stock base circle is 32 mm. Many of the higher lift aftermarket camshafts have 30mm base circles.





Brakes -Stock R32 brakes are an upgrade for 300ZX's.Stock Vspec R32 brakes are Brembos. Stock R33 /R34 are Brembos. For most people these are adequate . Brake pads are up to whatever is the latest and greatest. Generally speaking if they work really well, they throw a lot of dust, and squeal like a stuck pig at low speeds. Brakes on 1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R NISMO #500.

What Breaks ?

Clutch- Lots of power and AWD . The fuse in the driveline is the clutch. You have a lot of possibilities here. My favorite "normal" clutch is the Nismo twin plate clutch - along with a Nismo Slave Cylinder(even though it is not recommended to use with a twin plate). The twin plate clutch will work until around 600 hp at the wheels. It has a very nice feel , plus its a sprung hub , for that extra give in the driveline. We have used HKS/Tilton twin and triple plate clutches. They are non -sprung hub. The HKS/Tilton twins are fairly difficult to drive. Or as Sport Compact Car called one "the clutch from hell". The triple could not be recommended for a street car. It was extremely difficult to drive on the street. Carbon clutches are great but very expensive. The Tilton true carbon/carbon clutch costs around $7000.

Pull style/ late R32/R33/R34 clutch. This is a Nismo


Tilton carbon/carbon triple plate clutch. These clutches are all push style

Transmission - In R32 ,R33 making over 500hp to the wheels , 3rd gear has had some issues while drag racing. The synchros are also not all that durable. The internals of the R32,R33 are the same as the 300ZX twin turbo. Redline Shockproof Heavy Gear Oil. We used it in our 10.7 drag car with a stock transmission and it seems to really help with transmission durability.

The Getrag(V160) in an R34 requires its own special oil.The oil is available from Toyota dealerships and its $40 a liter. The Getrag does not like Shockproof Heavy, so don't use it in it. We ran Redline High Temp ATF in the R34 GT-R Racecar with success.  OS Giken transmission internal upgrades for the R32-R33 seem to be good up to 700 hp. If you want to go fast straight, there are some guys building a strong Nissan automatic box.


GTR broken transmission gears
Early and late R32/R33 transmissions broken 3rd gear
 
Turbos - The stock R32,R33 ,R34 turbos have ceramic exhaust wheels . Detonation has caused more than one of these to break off , thereby causing a normally aspirated GT-R. Don't detonate on the stock turbos. In Japan they say the limit is 1.1 bar.You can run more, just be prepared to change the turbos. Popular upgrades are going to a single turbo manifold. Our problem with singles are, the old manifolds, and turbochargers that are not divided exhaust inlet are a big less responsive than a proper twin turbo setup. Then the tubular style exhaust manifolds can crack, the flanges can warp. In 17 years, never had a OEM cast manifold crack or warp. In the same time, had a dozen differnt single manifolds crack, and warp.




The wheel on the left is metal, the one on the right is ceramic




Oil pump- Early R32's have an oil pump drive that is about half the width of the late R32/R33/R34 crankshaft. That combined with an 8000 rpm factory redline leads to the occasional misshift over rev and the oil pump gears break.

The N1 oil pump is similar to a stock pump with a stiffer spring.We had a lot of N1 oil pump failures. These pumps were direct from Nissan, not knock off's as some have speculated.  Many aftermarket companies make upgraded pumps. The motor has to come out, they cost $1000 and up.

Wide RB26 Crankshaft drive
Wide RB26 oil pump drive


RB26dett Spline Drive Oil Pump
RB26dett Spline Drive oil pump gears. 
 
#6 cylinder - #6 cylinder is the lean cylinder. Every motor has a lean cylinder. Its also at the back of the engine, last to get coolant flow. The stock intake collector(not really a manifold as its on the front side of the throttle bodies) design forces air to stack up at #6. The Nismo inlet plenum was designed to balance flow though the motor. This is not really a basic, rather something just good to know. Just know that if you ever run the car lean, you will probably hurt #6 first. Also if you are checking compression or leak down, try out #6 first.




NISMO Plenum for RB26
Nismo plenum, stock airbox , 600+whp
Vacuum/Boost Diagram



   
Why you shouldn't use a Japanese market tuned ECU.

Japanese market premium fuel is rated at 100 octane.They use a different method of determining octane in Japan. Here in the US -Southern California our premium fuel is 91 octane (RON+MON/2) or AKI . Of course you can buy 104 unleaded from VP. You can also buy 100 octane unleaded out of the pump at some 76 stations. But for all practical purposes 91 octane is as high as you will get here in Southern California. Some places in the US you can get up to 94 out of the pump at "normal" gas stations.



















42 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi Tyndago!
I'm having cold start problems, and bit of rough idling. I need to step on the gas pedal to make the GT-R start. And upon checking some of my plugs are wet w/ gasoline. :( No error codes detected, split fire coils, BCPR7ES plugs...

Sean Morris said...

Maybe a leaking injector. Maybe a MAF issue. Maybe a leak in the intake path. Splitfire coils are crap. My cars always ran better with stock coils, and a new coil harness.

Anonymous said...

Ok. Funny thing is it happens a lot on cold starts only. When the car is warm it's no problem. I could scratch the MAF out since I tried another set before. Hmmm...intake path leak, and leaky injectors. What's the standard vacuum of the RB26 at idle, 0.5 (a/c engaged) to 0.8 (a/c off)? And what are the signs of a leaky injector? The car idles quite ok, but not as fine as before.
Split fires are crap? :) Maybe that is why they are now almost at the same price w/ the oem ones

Sean Morris said...

Leaking overnight. Other than pulling them out and testing not a lot.

Although injector seals, or other seals leaky that seal up when the car warms up is pretty common. Often the injector seals.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the tips! Another thing discovered is the wet plugs seems to jump from num. 3 and num. 4 cylinder.

Sean Morris said...

3-4 is probably that throttle gasket. There are 2 gaskets there, one on each side of the throttle body.

Anonymous said...

Nice topic. By the way leaky injectors will be obvious since there will be traces of gasoline on the top injector (exposed side), and will be fixed via new o rings... Or... is there a kind of injector leak that can't be fixed by them o-rings? Like the leak is coming from the injector body/tip area itself?

Anonymous said...

Hello Tyndago!
Do you have any info on what is the function of the clutch pedal switch? Was adjusting clutch engagement on pedal when I saw it. Tried checking it on FSM, and the function of it wasn't described at all.

Does all GT-Rs have it?

Thanks in advance!!

Sean Morris said...

All the GT-R's have them. Most cars in the US won't start without the clutch in.

The JDM GT-R's will start with the clutch out. I am sitting here thinking that the late R34's might have needed the clutch in to start, but I can't remember exactly.

I can't think of another purpose other than starter lockout.

Anonymous said...

Hey!
Was googling GT-R stuff and stumbled to your site most of the time. ;) Anyways, how do you go about bleeding the GT-R BNR32 and 34 brakes, Brembo ones. I know the basics like the furthest one first up to the master cylinder. But since these Brembos have 2 nipples, w/c do you bleed first? And is there a need to bleed the ABS also if you replace the master cylinder? W/c nipple first on the BNR32 ABS?

Lastly, you were most helpful on GT-R owners around the world! Thanks You!

Sean Morris said...

On the Brembos with two bleeders, do the outside first, then inside, on each caliper. Like the furthest to closest idea.You don't need to do each out then each inner. I would start the car, and bleed the ABS unit. You don't want any trapped air. Just makes everything feel bad.

Anonymous said...

Regarding the brakes, so it doesn't really matter if I don't follow the outer then inner nipple bleeding? I just saw on different forums stating the opposite, inner then outer and actually saw an old post from you also on GTROC back in '06 (http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/60045-bleeding-r33-calipers.html). ;) And do you really need to start the car during the bleed process? Just saw the FSM, and it even says to remove the battery terminal before bleeding.

Thank you again!

Sean Morris said...

I was probably wrong there. Although its kind of 6 one way half dozen the other. Its not as critical the order, as trying to get all the air out around each piston. Sometimes you have to drive the car, or hit the calipers with a rubber hammer to free up air. Outer then inner, just like doing the furthest wheel from the master first. The outer is further away from the master, inner is closer to the master.

I would leave the car off the first time, then after the first round, when you have a decent pedal start the car, and run around the car once. On the R35 the procedure actually says to "Run the vehicle until the surface temperature of caliper reaches 70 to 80°C (158 to 176°F), and then perform
the stops 1 to 8 with the caliper heated".

If you replace the master running the car can trigger the ABS and move some of the trapped air around. The whole thing we are trying to do is get rid of all the trapped air. Any air will give you a bad pedal.

Justin said...

Sean,

Do you have an article on regular maintenance? My R34 is approaching 100,000km on the odometer. I'm prepared to throw some money at the car to give it an overhaul. What should my focus be for a GT-R with this mileage?

Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Hello Sean!
I have a 92 GT-R and I bought it a Trust oil pan drain bolt (those with magnet). to my surprise it won't fit, it is much smaller! Thinking it was just a wrong part sent I tried another plug for RB26 GT-R32 but again it is smaller! :/

Now I'm wondering Sean, does a Zenki one have different oil drain plug? Or mine is a different pan or was over sized already? :(

Sean Morris said...

Is the Trust drain bolt for their pan? They have a specific add on oil pan piece. As far as I know, all the pans are the same. 14 mm bolt heads.

Anonymous said...

The trust drain bolts are made all Japanese brands and it says compatible with the GT-R 32.

I don't know if my pan is aftermarket since it looks oem, I was hoping the built in nut on the pan was not "oversized" by the previous owner because of broken threads. :/

Going to check it again on my next oil change if the thread size is up 1 compared oem so if it does I can use Helicoil to get back to the original size.

Anonymous said...

Hi there sean! Very nice blog here! 8) Was searching this on your blog but came up empty. This is for all other GT-R owners out there. Anyways question is--

True or False that the curved clutch fans of the BCNR33 and BNR34 is better than the straight ones the BNR32 has?

I'm going to replace my clutch fan assembly, and I can use the GTR33 fan or retain my old GTR32 fan. Tried fitting the 33 ones (I have a Blitz thick rad BTW) and since the blade is curvy it has a very small clearance with my crank pulley maybe about 2 - 3mm only. Is this safe? On oem radiators this won't be an issue at all since they're much smaller. I think the plastic fan might flex at high speed so I don't like the idea of maybe it'll hit the pulley. :)

I know this situation might crossed you as well. So what do you say about curve vs. straight fans. Is it worth the small clearance for guys having aftermarket radiators?

All the best!

Sean Morris said...

Honestly, I haven't put much thought into the fan. The mechanical clutch works better than most of the old electric fans. Generally the later cars parts are improved over the earlier cars parts. If its only 2-3 mm I would be a bit afraid of it hitting. I have seen a cut/ground down fan, but you would have to be a bit careful with balance. Remember the fan is only really there for low speed, once you are moving, you should have enough natural air flowing though the radiator to cool the car.

Anonymous said...

Hello sir Tyndago,
Any guides on how to properly replace engine and transmission mounts on? Do we need engine hoist or just jack?

A friend convinced me to DIY it but a bit unsure on how to safely do it for us and the car.

Thanks!

Sean Morris said...

I have never tried to replace them in the car. The trans should be pretty easy. Just unbolt and jack up the end of the trans. The engine mounts, if you drop the subframe a little and support the engine from the top it would be easier. However you have a lot of parts in the way of the engine mounts. Not impossible, but you need some kind of lift and support, and some spare time. Something I would save for the next time the engine is out.

Anonymous said...

With being said... is Engine Torque Damper a good useful upgrade for a street GT-R that also sees track days sometimes?

Cheers!

Sean Morris said...

Never ran one on the race car.

Anonymous said...

Good day Sean!
Tried doing a compression test on my GT-R today, And I got an ave. of 135-140 across all the cylinders. Done this on a warm engine, not too hot though. Is this value a little low for RB26 standards?? I've been reading like 150 - 170 is the normal values. :/ Good thing is they have the same numbers all through out though.

The engine has been rebuild last year, new piston set, 1.2mm gasket. Little nervous here.

Sean Morris said...

There are 100 ways to do a compression check wrong. I have seen gauges that are 30-40 psi off. If you do compression check, just look for the average across all the holes. If its 100, or its 120, you want to make sure they are all around the same. If you really want to check the health of the engine, get a leak down tester.

Zenki said...

Copy!! So basically on these compression testers the MOST IMPORTANT thing to consider is it reading out values that are almost if not the same across all 6!

Thanks! I can breath easy now since mine is giving out similar numbers 135-140 on all six. Was nervous since I just had a usually pricey RB26 rebuild. Maybe I'll try the leak down test next.

Sean Morris said...

Its close values across all 6 that are important, exactly. A leak down test, you use air from an air compressor to fill the combustion chamber when its at TDC. You can then see a percentage of loss. 1%,5%, 10%. You can also tell where you might have an issue. If you hear air out of the oil fill, probably a ring/piston. Hear it out the intake, intake not sealing right. Out the exhaust, exhaust not sealing right.

FEPASA e RFFSA in HO said...

hello,
yesterday I did a compression test in my 1990 gtr, with 145,00 km, so the result was 130psi in all 6 cylinders, so its bad?

Sean Morris said...

130 psi means nothing. Its just a number. What you are looking for is a balance. If you actually want to test the condition of your engine, do a leak down test. I think compression tests are a waste of time.

Anonymous said...

Hello guys in real need of advice, I have oil leaking into my turbos I own a 1990 skyline gtr r32 I had my turbos rebilt last summer and the problem is still happening. Is there anything else I could have missed.

Unknown said...

Does anyone have the part number for the GTR rear diff or know of any cross compatible ones? Is the z32tt the same??

Unknown said...

You should mention in the clutch section. The early R32s had a Push style clutch, and later 32's,33 and 34s had a Pull Style clutch.

Sean Morris said...

Thanks. I mention it in a round about way with captions, but I will put it in the text. I have an entire page of clutch and transmission information.

Anonymous said...

Isn't it Nissan recommends Nissan E-TS oil for the ATTESA? Or we can also use Nissan Matic D on it?

Jennifer Sullivan said...

Hi I just found your site. I have a 1989 R32 and once the clutch is released all the way and the car has stopped (like at a stop sign) I can't push the clutch back in to switch into gear to start driving again. The car has to be turned off and back on. It has a Tomi shift kit. I just bought it, so I don't know if it's always been like this or not. Any advice? Thank you. Jen

Sean Morris said...

I have had a similar issue, when the clutch needed bleeding. If you can get the car in the air, have someone watch the slave cylinder movement. Also, how does the pedal feel?

Unknown said...

Quick question. On my r32 there is a button just to the right of the steering wheel that has a picture of a small fan an a big fan. What exactly does that button do?

Sean Morris said...

Its some kind of fan controller. Normally it turns on the AC fan, regardless if the AC is on or off. Have to flip it and see what happens. Some aren't connected, just long lost ghost switches.

Anonymous said...

It controls the fan at the rear windshield

Anonymous said...

Quick question Sean I just drained my gearbox oil on my r32 GTR skyline and only got about 2 point something litres where I'm reading it's suppose to take 4? I then added 3 quartz of redline heavy at the end of the third one it started driping out the filler hole. Is it not suppose to take 4?

Sean Morris said...

Transmission fluid - Don't try and fill it though the gear shifter. Though the gear shifter is the transfer case . GL4 75-90 4.1 liters (4.3 quarts)

R Mac said...

Sean,
I live in Yokohama. I have a clean '99 White R34 V-Spec and I have pondered a trade for a real or replica clean Hako or Ken Mary. I've even considered a LHD R35, is it a pipe dream or not?

Blog Archive