Nissan Challenge at Chuckwalla : Brian's R32 GT-R

I seem to take a lot of pictures of Brians GT-R when its moist outside.

The second event of the season for Nissan Challenge was at Chuckwalla. Chuckwalla is a track in the middle of nowhere. As in nothing close, remotely close. Not even other racetrack kind of close. I mean an hour and a half round trip to anything. Gas, food, play to stay. They have cabins at the track, but most busy weekends they are all taken. I've never driven the track, but its remoteness just really makes it hard to make a reason to go to it. We have places like Willow Springs, Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, or Thunderhill,

Toprank/ CSF black radiator. GK tech bubble tank from Stagea

Time has been a real challenge in getting things done. However one real positive was that Brian got to go to the track, and do some track time with Will. Powerwise we haven't touched it. Its not optimal, running about 20 psi peak, and dropping to about 13 psi at least in local testing. Cooling is always an issue when you start making power. A gasoline engine is inefficient and a lot of horsepower is tuned into heat. Living in Southern California, and most of our tracks being in the desert, it can get very hot. We still want to run in the heat, so it takes some "xtra" measures to keep us going. We swapped the clutch fan to a new OEM R34 one, the fan clutch to a used good one we had. Then on the radiator, swapped his original Toprank/CSF billet end tank R32 Radiator, from aluminum to black, to keep with our theme.

Seibon hood and some good old MS109

Ernie also "borrowed" the GK Tech bubble/bleeder tank from the Stagea and put it on Brians car. From Seibon Brian got a new vented carbon fiber hood.

This Seibon hood has vents to aid in cooling. Its not hot yet, but its gonna be.

Staying thermostat temp. Feeling good

This LiPo battery decided to die. Started a few times, then at the gas station, became the 1 V instead of 12 V. Thanks Ernie for saving me

I also swapped the battery to a 40B19L, which moved the positive terminal away from the oil filter block, but the battery decided starting twice was enough, then death. Trying to see if I killed it, or if it can be revived.

#6 not shiny balls on it

I didn't remember what plugs I put in his car. but it turns out they were BCPR7EIX. Those are 1 heat range cooler than stock, and what I will use on a street car up to about 500 hp. For road courses, I really want at least an 8, and even down to a 10 if its hot and powerful. People ask what are the best spark plugs for an RB26 - its a 7436-8,9, or 10. If you are using something else, you aren't using the best.

The plugs look like they might even want a little more timing. I had a used set of -10s.

7436-8 Heat Range 8, double fine wire racing plugs.

While Ernie was changing the plugs, we also "borrowed" the Supertec R35 coil bracket, and R35 coils from the Stagea to put on his car. Not that he was having any issues, but eliminating the ignitor is just one less thing to fail.

Brian did well at Chuckwalla getting down to a 2:03 fast enough for 2nd in Class 2. Next event is R's Day at Laguna Seca this year on May 26th. So now its always the time vs things we want to do. Cisco and Brian have been talking cage/bar/hoop and a new seat for our Giant Justin Bieber. Along with that also mounting the front splitter/bumper/ducting that the front will need. Ernie and myself want to pull the engine and transmission to give it a quick tune up on the hot and cold side. Some parts are coming, but again its time vs shipping, vs get it done. The plan is to absolutely maximize the turbos on the car. The engine itself is stock. That is pistons, rods, headgasket, etc. I would like to build an engine with pistons, rods, a proper head, and studs, but not in the cards for next round. Eventually we will get to it.

So instead its going to be something like :

Tomei cast exhaust manifolds - get them ceramic coated if we have time and they show up
HPI 76mm outlet tubes - coat them too. Keep heat in the exhaust and away from things you don't want to melt. After the turbo, the less restriction the better
Coat/ heat shields on the hotside of the turbos. The rear turbo outlet is on the front turbo inlet
KTS hardpipe inlet kit. The rear especially helps prevent it collapsing under lots of boost
Drop in cams. Nothing crazy, just enough to wake it up a little
Cam gears - Bring some more bottom up on the car
Extend the sump - if we get the chance. Ernie has done the Leask Spec, but I also like the look of the HPR extension
Accusump - good insurance for oil surge
Remove old Hicas stuff
Install new rear end with Greddy extended cover
Rear Subframe LCA fix
Front LCA to push bottom out vs tuck top in. R32 like too much front camber to turn
New Meister suspension with more spring and new damping
Front Splitter
Ducting
New Wheels and Tire setup
Maybe new/borrowed transmission since its legal in class