The R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R was produced from January 1995 to November 1998. A total of 16,674 cars were produced according to the GT-R Registry. The 1995 cars are considered Series 1 cars, 1996 Series 2, and 1997 and 1998 Series 3. The R33 GT-R turns 25 years old, and legal to import to the US, starting in January 2020. For more information on legal R33 GT-R importation to the US, check out www. importavehicle.com
| Model | GT-R Magazine | GT-R Registry |
|---|---|---|
| Normal | 9871 | 5044 Series 1 2291 Series 2 1958 Series 3 9293 Normal |
| Vspec | 6551 | 4095 Series 1 1203 Series 2 1270 Series 3 6568 Vspec |
| N1 | 86 | |
| LM | 188 | |
| Autech | 416 | |
| UK | 103 | |
| Total | 16250 | 16674 |
| Year | GT-R Magazine | GT-R Registry |
|---|---|---|
| 1995 | 8446 | 9271+20 |
| 1996 | 4093 | 3651 |
| 1997 | 2708 | 2700 |
| 1998 | 1175 | 1038 |
| Total | 16422 | 16674 |
NISMO 400R. Even though 44 is the claimed number, GT-R Registry thinks there were only 40 produced. We would believe either number could be true.
Car | R32 GT-R (early) | R33 GT-R (normal) | R34 GT-R (normal) | R35 GT-R (early) |
Length | 4545 mm (178.9 in) | 4675 mm (184.1 in) | 4600 mm (181.1 in) | 4650 mm (183.1 in) |
Width | 1755 mm (69.1 in) | 1780 mm (70.1 in) | 1785 mm (70.3) | 1900 mm (74.9 in) |
Height | 1340 mm (52.8 in) | 1360 mm (53.5 in) | 1360 mm (53.5 in) | 1370 mm (54 in) |
Weight | 1480 kg (3265 lbs) | 1530 kg (3373 lbs) | 1540 kg (3395 lbs) | 1737 kg (3829 lbs) |
Wheelbase | 2615 mm (103 in) | 2720 mm (107.1 in) | 2665 mm(104.9 in) | 2780 mm (109.4 in) |
Front track | 1480 mm (58.3 in) | 1480 mm (58.3 in) | 1480 mm (58.3 in) | 1590 mm (62.9 in) |
Rear track | 1480 mm (58.3 in) | 1480 mm (58.3 in) | 1490 mm (58.7 in) | 1600 mm (63 in) |
First Dates of Production
-
1st model 1-6-1995
-
Vspec 1-6-1995
-
2nd model 1-22-1996
-
LM Limited5-21-1996
-
3rd model 2-3-1997
-
Autech 40th Anniversary12-8-1997
-
Last regular R33 - BCNR33-043740 (QM1 ) 11-9-1998
-
Last Vspec R33 - BCNR33-043743 (GV1) 11-9-1998
-
Last Vspec R33 N1- BCNR33-043012 (QM1) 2-20-1998
-
The last R33 is a R34 color , GV1.There were at least a few made in this color as one of Motorex's original imported R33's was GV1.
-
R33 Chassis number, Serial number, or VIN information.
Paint Codes
 |
| AN0 - Super Clear Red |
AN0 - Super Clear Red
BN6 - Deep Marine Blue
KH3 - Black
KL0 - Spark Silver
KH3 - Black
KL0 - Spark Silver
KN6 - Dark Grey Pearl
LP2 - Midnight Purple
LP2 - Midnight Purple
 |
| LP2 - Midnight Purple |
QM1 - White
 |
| QM1 - White |
 |
| BT2 - Champion Blue one of only 86 cars |
KR4 - Sonic Silver
AR1 - Super Clear Red II
Nissan Skyline GT-R prices when new
1-6-95- GT-R 4,7850,000 yen
- Vspec 5,290,000 yen
- N1 5,990,000 yen
- GT-R 4,825,000 yen
- Vspec 5,330,000 yen
- N1 5,990,000 yen
- LM Limited 4,998,000 yen
- Vspec LM Limited 5,503,000 yen
- GT-R 4,885,000 yen
- Vspec 5,390,000 yen
- N1 5,998,000 yen
- 4 door Sedan 4,985,000 yen
Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R33
| Air filter element | Fram CA4309 K&N 33-2031-2 |
Every 36,000 miles |
| Oil | Mobil 1 10-30 , 15-50 | 3,000 miles or 6 months |
| Oil Filter | OEM 15208-60U00 Fram PH3682 OEM(R34) 15208-9E000 |
Every 3,000 miles |
| Spark Plugs | NGK PFR6A-11 | Every 60,000 miles |
| Timing Belt | OEM 13028-20P25 | Every 60,000 miles |
| Suspension ball joint grease | Every 72,000 miles or 4 years | |
| Manual transmission fluid | GL-4 75 –90 | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
| Differential Fluid - Front | GL-5 85W-90 | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
| - Center | Nissan Automatic Fluid D | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
| - Rear | LSD GL-5 80W-90 | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
| Fuel Filter | Purolator F44663 , 1996 Infiniti J30 | Every 15,000 miles |
| Wiper Blades | Bosch 40921-21 (R33) | As required |
| Radiator Cap | OEM – 21430-4B700 | |
| Brake Pads- Front AP592 R592 PFC 592 HB 194 |
As required | |
| - Rear - AP961 | As required | |
| Brake Rotor - Front | As required | |
| Rear | As required | |
| Power Steering belt AC belt Alt/ WP /Fan |
Suspension and Alignment settings for Nissan Skyline GT-R. R32, R33, and R34.
R32 GT-R Specifications and Production Information
R33 GT-R Specifications and Production Information
R34 GT-R Specifications and Production Information
6 comments:
Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance... We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.
Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.
And a bit of noob question too-- why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. :) By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! ;)
They mostly say to use a high gear so its harder to actually spin the tires from the crank side. 4th is a 1:1 in an R32/R33, 5th is near 1:1 in the Getrag in an R34. For a small force application like breaking a crank bolt free, just whatever it takes to get it loose will be fine.
If you had it in 1st gear, you have the mechanical advantage of gearing, and can spin/turn the tires from the crank side. The higher the gear, the less mechanical advantage the engine has, and also the higher the load on the engine when running/driving. .
Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? :)
Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm... is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) :)
Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.
Oiling the bolt would increase the torque that is placed on the bolt. I normally put a little anti-seize on them, as I like them to come off easier later.
Good day R guru sean! Quick question for all the GT-R builders out there, is it a REQUIREMENT to put on loctite on the tensioner studs when replacing them? Coz I know some know how "experienced" mechanics said they don't need to... while other mechanics said it's not safe to put them back w/o it? Bit confused here.
Loctite is a good idea. Its not likely that they will loosen up if tightened correctly with a torque wrench, but not everyone does that every time. If you lose a tensioner, then you have a bad day. So its not a requirement, but its a good idea if you do do it.
Post a Comment