Full Race ETS Pro Install and Testing

I just realized that I never posted pictures from my Full Race ETS-Pro install into my NISMO R32 GT-R. First off, the OEM ATTESA system is over 25 years old. Back in 1990 it worked pretty well, but since then computers and sensors have both improved. The nice part about the Full Race ETS Pro, is that it is a complete replacement for the OEM ATTESA computer, and G-Sensor. Its adjustable, allows you to run RWD only, and dial in the amount of torque split.

We ran it at Buttonwillow road racing, at at Auto Club Dragway. Both times were noticeable differences in how the torque was split in the car.

The ETS Pro box mounted behind the upper section of the rear seat

ETS-Pro is engineered specifically for use with the R32, R33 and R34 Skyline GT-R ATTESA system. Designed to give you complete control over Nissan’s multiplate transfer case, ETS-Pro easily adjusts active torque split percentages on the fly – allowing you to switch from 4WD to RWD and all points in between. It also allows proper control for using an AWD Skyline GT-R transmission in non-OEM race applications or swaps (such as Escort Cosworth)

ETS-Pro R32 GTR Installation Guide: Click Here!
ETS-Pro Universal Install Guide: Click Here!

Bottom of rear seat removed, with most of the wires run.

Room behind rear seat.

Notes:
-Compared to OEM or modified OEM, the ETS-Pro firmware holds more pressure at the bottom end (to reduce system lag) and at the max top end it produces a hair more than full lockup of the clutchpack. The reason for this is that if the solenoid takes the pressure down below our minimum, there is a large amount of lag present in the system. This lag is what the stock ATESSA ecu allows for and why many experienced drivers complain about “delay” in the stock GTR. For this reason it is very important to remove the front driveshaft any time you plan to use your 4WD car on a 2WD dyno.

-both R32 and R33/R34 GTR ATTESA pumps were tested and we found virtually zero difference in performance between the pumps or solenoids. The functional difference is that R33/R34 GTR may have an additional failsafe solenoid. This solenoid should be disabled, by giving it a constant 12V any time the pump is on.

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Digital G sensor mounted under OEM center console. The wires had to be extended to reach.

ETS-PRO Technical Details:
-Advanced Microprocessor with Dual-axis high resolution G-Sensor
-Water resistant and dust proof enclosure (IP65)
-Custom firmware with driver adaptive capability
-Torque split calculations use advanced formulas instead of static mapping or lookup tables
-Several internal modes (programs) based on driver throttle and G-Sensor behavior that switch on the fly automatically
-Optional Wheelspeed inputs on 2nd microprocessor daughter-board for aggressive Drag launches
-ETS-PRO unit requires connecting (6) wires. The installer has the option to hard wire the ETS-PRO to the ATTESA Solenoid (located on ATTESA pump) or to connect the ETS-PRO to the OEM wiring harness.

Digital G Sensor mounted

Controls mounted in the ashtray

With the ashtray closed, controls are not visible

The ATESSA-ETS primary solenoid is remarkably similar to the Subaru STI solenoid in terms of control and response/output. However, the GT-R has a lot more amperage draw than the Subaru and if we keep a low base pressure of ~20+psi, the response is instantaneous and can hit 250psi in less than a second…maybe tenths of a second even. Response times with ETS-PRO are noticeably faster than the factory system. This is much quicker than anything else that has been tested previously. The testing was performed on a 21 year old R32 GTR atessa pump, from a salvage yard, 100k KM on it. We were surprised that a hydraulic system go from nothing to basically 240psi in less than a few tenths of a second with some clever programming.If allowed, the pump can produce up to ~350psi+ *instantly* which is interesting (scary) on the least!

-After charting the curve of duty cycle vs pressure, it is very manageable and we can get an amazing resolution from the ETS-Pro maps (It can control the pressure to approx. 0.83 psi increments.)

Cut and Deutsch connectors added, so if I want to go back to stock, just switch the plugs.

-The original G-sensor and ATTESA computer have to be connected for the stock ABS and stock 4WD gauge to work -In order to keep the OEM ATTESA ECU intact (except the disconnected wires for the Solenoid) and keep the 4wd light off with a functioning torque split gauge – add a 20-Watts 8-ohm resistor across the output during installation. The resistor can be found by clicking HERE. -To 100% disconnect power to the transfer case, ground the ebrake wire either by pulling up the ebrake one click or an external switch. It is still a good idea to remove the front driveshaft anytime you are using a 2wd dyno