#bluecar 2019 :Specifications : Plans : Changes

importavehicle.com R32 GT-R at Autoclub Speedway for R's Day 2018

I have had the bluecar at the track three times the last three years. Twice at Laguna Seca, and once at ACS for R's Day. Below are some of the specifications of the car, the issues that I saw, and some solutions for 2019. Eventually we will sell this car, but not sure exactly what spec it will be in when we sell it. "Only driven on Sundays."

RB26dett

Specs:

Tomei oil cooled pistons
Stock rods
Tomei 260 - 9.15 camshaft
HKS 2540 Turbos
ARC Twin Entry Intercooler
HKS turbo inlet piping
HKS EVC EZ
Z32 air flow meters (only use OEM)
AEM dry flow air filters
Carbon fiber catchcan
Nistune ECU with E85 board
Innovate ECB-1
Supertec R35 coil adapter with Wiring Specialties harness
Setrab oil cooler with remote filter mount (Trust?)
Aluminum radiator
Kudos Motorsport 1250 cc long nose injectors
Unknown fuel pump
Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Equal length front pipe
Cat back exhaust
Nismo Coppermix twin plate clutch
Brembo F50 Front brakes (4 piston 355 mm)

Hawk DTC 60 Pads
FMSI D372, D447, D609. Fits:
1994-98 Audi RS2
1994-96 Ferrari 456 GT Coupe Rear
and many Porsche models, including:
1996-98 911 Carrera 4 rear
1991 911 Turbo
1986 928 S
1987-91 928 S4
1990-91 928 GT
1989-91 944 Turbo
1992-95 968 Sport
Also fits the Stoptech ST40 caliper.

OEM R34 Rear brakes

Unknown pads

Stainless steel brake lines
Brake ducts
Nismo R-Tune (Ohlins Flag R) coil overs
Adjustable front and rear sway bars (set full soft)
Nismo front strut tower brace with master cylinder stopper
Nismo rear strut tower brace
(Removed, got noisy)GK Tech Adjustable upper control arms
OKUYAMA Tow Hook
BBS LM Wheels 18 x 10 +20
Bridgestone RE-71R 275/35/18

The car is pretty good on track. At ACS, I was only running spring pressure for boost, so the car was making about 7-9 psi. Even here it is pretty quick, and will see over 130 mph on the Roval. Best time was a 1:56. The RE71's are a great tire, pretty forgiving. Overall handling of the car was pretty good. I started with it pretty soft in compression and rebound, but dialed it up a bit to settle it down on the banked turns. There is a little power on oversteer, but this is a GT-R characteristic. This was my second time driving at ACS, and I was getting more comfortable. I think that I can get a few seconds out of the time, just changing my driving. Add some power, and more still.

R's Day Coverage Super Street Magazine
R's Day at Autoclub Speedway

Not a fan of the oil cooler placement. Unknown brand brake duct

Turn 3 is always a thing at ACS. You come from 100+ mph down to a fairly low speed set of corners. The pedal got a bit long, but I figured out that it was probably brake knock back. Tapping the brake pedal prior to actually hitting the brake, ensured a good firm pedal. One of the bleeder screws on the Brembo F40 calipers had sheared off when I was bleeding the brakes. It wasn't leaking, and it was stuck flush with the caliper. First one I have broken off. Needs to get fixed. The rear brake lines look a little worse for wear.

Brembo F50 calipers. 355 mm rotors. Brake ducts

I have some vibration under heavy braking, that I first attributed to running two different brake compounds on the rotors without proper bedding. However now I see a little fore/aft movement. Will have to investigate and replace. I think it might be the inner tie rod end.

Under the car, all the ball joints and tie rod ends could probably use to be replaced. 25 year old car that has been run hard. Unknown when they were replaced last (except driver outer)

Plans

Rebuild front and rear brake calipers. That snapped off bleeder has for sure pushed that. Not sure if I should get the parts and rebuild them myself, or send them out. Depends on time. I would also like to coat the pistons, but real life, time, and money always come into play. Change the rear caliper color from gold to red, because red is faster. New rotors all around are probably a good idea. On the rear I need to measure the rotors to verify size. I would also like to switch up to a 2 piece rear rotor. Lighter unsprung weight is better. New brake lines. Have to figure out what to do with the calipers, as the fronts are not like the OEM Brembo. So need to have some different front lines.

I think I will do the inner tie rod ends both sides, rack bushings, ball joints. Maybe change the front wheel bearings. See how they feel.

"Hellcat" 525 l/hr fuel pump in stock cradle

Fuel system and ECU. Still plan on modifying the stock rail for a -8 feed. Need to install the 525 l/hr "Hellcat" fuel pump for it. Can't decide if I want to install the Hydramat, or stick with the stock fuel pump cradle. Eventually see what makes sense. Maybe extend the stock cradle so I can use a hydramat, or just knock the end down. Couple different ways to do it, and keep the fuel pump secure. Need to finish installing the Innovate ECB-1, so I can get the flex fuel sensor input into the Nistune ECU.

Adding the ECB-1 where the OEM vent used to live. Also notice the burned OEM headlight connector. Common issue.

Something, something exhaust. I want to do something else with the exhaust. Have to figure that out when I get some time.

Stock airbox is going back in. Bought the KTS hard pipe kit. The OEM rear turbo inlet hose can collapse under head load. So will do the KTS piping with some heat shielding, HP1 R35 MAF adapters, Stock airbox with an extra feed.