Dyno time and Dead ECU's

Dyno time. A dyno is a tool. Like a 10 mm socket. Harder to lose, but lots more expensive too. With that said, we don't race dynos, even though lots of people and entire countries like to use them as a manhood measuring device. The numbers mean something, but they don't mean everything, or nothing. Brian's R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R car had never been on the dyno, but I drove it a bit, and it felt decent. It was making about 12-13 psi with OEM boost control setup on 74% ethanol or E85 at the ECB-1.

Stagea 260RS as a dyno support vehicle. Maybe even some dyno time!

An R32 GT-R you can run rear wheel drive by pulling a fuse for the ATTESA system. Unlike the R33 or R34 which have backup power to the ATTESA pump (transfer case), an R32 GT-R transfer stays mostly open. Nothing is ever 100%, but we generally accept that for some power pulls, and no hugely long pulls, there is no need to drop the front propshaft.

First pull the car did ~290 horsepower and decent torque. A nice smooth curve. Nothing silly or crazy. Added a couple of degrees of timing to see what it would do, and it picked up to 318 hp. Seemed pretty happy. So next run tried some more, and it was done, so backed it back down to 318 hp level. Now the fun comes, adding boost. I tried adding some duty cycle in the oem boost control setup, and nothing happened. So I changed to a three port solenoid I had, tried again, same thing. So at this point, leave it or... manual controller it is. Put some boost in and car responded well. So we ended up with it spiking to about 20 psi, and then dropping to 18 psi.

Ended up at 414 hp and 387 lb/ft. Everything looked pretty good, but pegged the mass airflow meters. Each meter is good for about 200 hp. At about that much air flowing past, the 0-5 volt sensors will read close to 5 volts. At that point its not possible for them to measure any more air. In the end that is just fine.

So the next mods are R35/Nissan meters in OEM sized housings. These should be able to meter air to about 600 hp. That is way out of the range of N1 turbos. Profec, or trying and figure out the boost control. Change the injectors to the Kudos 1150 cc long nose. Maybe some cam gears and tune the power a bit.

N1 turbo 46 mm inlet, 60 mm exducer A/R 0.8. Turbine inlet 53 mm, Exducer 42 mm. Trim 62. A/R0.64

Horsepower: 170 - 270 each

OEM MAF metering ranges

From Skylines Australia and Sydneykid (converted to RWWP)

------ --------- OD mm--- RWHP ---- RWHP ---- BHP ------ BHP

No of AFM's ---- -------- 1 ---------- 2 ------------- 1 -------- 2

RB26 ---------- 65 ------- 200 ------ 400 ------- 271 ------ 474

RB20/25 ------ 80 ------- 300 ------ 600 ------- 376 ------ 683

Z32 ------------- 8075---- 340 ----- 685 ------- 415 ------ 763

Q45 ------------ 90 ------- 400 ------ 810 ------- 479 ------ 890

R35/Nissan 70 ----- 300---------600
R35/Nissan 76.5-----350 --------700

R35/Nissan 88.9-----500--------1000

PMAS HPX 63.5----580 ----- 1160

PMAS HPX 70 -----640------- 1280

PMAS HPX 76.5 ---830 ----- 1660

PMAS HPX 88.9 ---1130 ------2260

The next day, Brian had a Nissan Challenge event at Buttonwillow 13CCW. So the plan was to go up and support him at the track. There were some challenges in the past, and I wanted to try and be there. Got home after the dyno, and got everything ready. Went to sleep with plans for early day the next morning. A 2 hour drive up to Buttonwillow. Next morning, get the kids up, car loaded the final bit, go to start the car, and nothing. Just crank and crank. The ECUtalk wouldn't connect. Crap dead ECU. Look at everything. Injectors start cycling. Pull fuses. Reseat ECU. In the end I just had to give up. I had a spare ECU at the shop. So for the second time in two days, back to the shop over the weekend.