![]() |
R's Day 2024 at Laguna Seca |
R's Day is an annual event that celebrates the Nissan GT-R and its passionate community. There was a bit of a false start on Spring Mountain this year, so its back to Laguna Seca in Monterey on May 26, 2024. Its a 103 dB day, so higher than last time we went, but still not that loud. The first session, the first year we went out of 26 car, I think there were 24 over noise. So be prepared to handle noise. If that be a baffle, extra muffler, or lift and coast, its what you are going to have to do, not to get kicked off the track. Look up Laguna exhaust for some ideas.
Checking wheels and tires for fit on the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca |
![]() |
My fathers customer's GT40 #1018, driven by Graham Baker at Monterey Historics at Laguna Seca |
![]() |
On the grid for World Challenge touring car in 2009 |
If you have driven on track dozens of times, or this is your first time, here are some procedures, and checklists of items to help ensure your over 25 year old Nissan Skyline GT-R survives.
- Notebook or notes
- Maintenance
- Fluids
- Tires
- Brakes
- Cooling
- Suspension
- Alignment
- Oiling
- Nut and Bolt
- Tow Hooks
- Fuel
- Modifications
- Track instructional videos
- Track Day Insurance
1.Notebook or Notes
We are in the modern era of taking notes on cars, but I still generally use handwritten notes. I generally have a notebook for each car. In it I have car information.
2.Maintenance
You have to maintain the car. You have to at least check these items. If you don't know the last time they were replaced, replace them prior to your track day.
- Basics - Read and know the basics
- Air Filter
- Spark Plugs
- Fuel Filter
- Compression/Leak Down Test
- Injector cleaning results
Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R32
Air filter element | Every 36,000 miles | |
A 10-30 , 15-50, 10-60 depending on ambient temperature | 3,000 miles or 6 months | |
OEM 15208-60U00 OEM R32 AY100-NS007 K & N HP-2008 MOBIL M1-208 WIX 51361 OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000 | Every 3,000 miles | |
Spark Plugs | Every 60,000 miles | |
Timing Belt | OEM 13028-20P25 Tensioner- 13070-42L00 Idler- 13074-58S00 Tensioner Spring- 13072-58S10 Water Pump - 21010-21U26 N1 Water Pump - 21010-24U27 Oil Seal- Camshaft (x2) 13042-16V00 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - 13510-19V00 | Every 60,000 miles |
Suspension ball joint grease | Every 72,000 miles or 4 years | |
Manual transmission fluid | GL-4 75 –90 OR Redline Shockproof Heavy (we recommend) | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
Differential Fluid - Front | GL-5 85W-90 or Shockproof Heavy Front diff fill plug - 00931-2121A . Front diff drain plug (has a magnet) 32103-01A01 | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
- Center | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years | |
- Rear | LSD GL-5 80W-90 or Shockproof Heavy and LSD additive | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years |
Fuel Filter | OEM 16400-72L00, 16400-72L05, 16400-72L15 Purolator F44663 same as 1996 Infiniti J30 | Every 15,000 miles |
Wiper Blades | Right Front Left Front Rear | 19.5 inches 18.5 inches 16 inches |
Radiator Cap | OEM – 21430-4B700 | |
FMSI D460, D647, D1182 HB178 AP460 R-4S | As required | |
AP109 .595 R-4S | As required | |
40206-05U02 Right Side 40206-05U03 Left Side | As required | |
Rear | As required | |
Power Steering belt AC belt Alt/ WP /Fan | 950= 950mm |
Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R33
Every 36,000 miles | ||
A 10-30 , 15-50 - 10-60 based on ambient temperature | 3,000 miles or 6 months | |
OEM 15208-60U00 OEM R32 AY100-NS007 K & N HP-2008 MOBIL M1-208 WIX 51361 OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000 | Every 3,000 miles | |
NGK PFR6A-11 BCPR7EIX (one heat range colder iridium) | Every 60,000 miles | |
OEM 13028-20P25 Tensioner- 13070-42L00 Idler- 13074-58S00 Tensioner Spring- 13072-58S10 Water Pump - 21010-21U26 N1 Water Pump - 21010-24U27 Oil Seal- Camshaft (x2) 13042-16V00 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - 13510-19V00 | Every 60,000 miles | |
Every 72,000 miles or 4 years | ||
GL-4 75 –90 OR Redline Shockproof Heavy (we recommend for a hard run car) | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years | |
GL-5 85W-90 or Shockproof Heavy Front diff fill plug - 00931-2121A . Front diff drain plug (has a magnet) 32103-01A01 | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years | |
Nissan Automatic Fluid D | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years | |
LSD GL-5 80W-90 or Shockproof Heavy and LSD additive | Every 60,000 miles or 2 years | |
OEM 16400-72L00, 16400-72L05, 16400-72L15 Purolator F44663 same as 1996 Infiniti J30 | Every 15,000 miles | |
Wiper Blades | Right Front Left Front Rear | xx inches xx inches xx inches |
OEM – 21430-4B700 | ||
Brake Pads- Front Brembo | As required | |
- Rear Brembo | As required | |
As required | ||
Rear | As required | |
4PK 969 4PK 910 4PK 875 | 969= 969mm |
3. Fluids
Replace them all before, and after each track day. It is cheap insurance.
- Engine Oil - 7.5 - 30 (10-30 for a street car, 10-60 on a track car) - 4.5 liters
- Oil Filter - OEM 15208-60U00 , WIX 51361, OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000
- Cooling System - Approximately 9 liters. Gycol or Water? Depends where you live.
- Front Differential (F160) - GL5 85-90 1 liter - (1 quart)
- Transmission fluid - Don't try and fill it though the gear shifter. Though the gear shifter is the transfer case . GL4 75-90 4.1 liters (4.3 quarts). Getrag has its own fluid
- Transfer Case - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D 1.8 liters (1.9 quarts)
- Rear Differential(R200) - LSD GL5 80-90 1.5 liter(1.5 quarts)
Racing Brake Fluids | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Brand Name | DOT Rating | Dry Boiling Point | Wet Boiling Point | Compatible with Conventional Brake Fluids* | Qty Fl Oz | Part Number |
AP Radi-CAL R4 | 4 | 644 | 399 | Yes | 16.9 | 3310-004 |
Motul RBF 660 | 4 | 617 | 401 | Yes | 16.9 | MT660 |
AP Radi-CAL R3 (formerly PRF) | 4 | 608 | 399 | Yes | 16.9 | 3338-17oz |
Red Line RL-600 | 4 | 604 | 400 | Yes | 16 | RL600 |
Motul RBF 600 | 4 | 594 | 421 | Yes | 16.9 | MT600 |
AP Radi-CAL R2 (formerly Super 600) | n/a | 594 | 399 | * No * | 16.9 | 3309-17oz |
Castrol SRF | 4 | 590 | 518 | Yes | 33.8 | 12512 |
Prospeed RS683 | 4 | 583 | 394 | Yes | 16.9 | 3340-201 |
ATE Type 200 | 4 | 536 | 396 | Yes | 33.8 | 3327-Liter |
Motul DOT 5.1 | 5.1 | 516 | 369 | Yes | 16.9 | MTDOT5.1 |
AP Radi-CAL R1 (formerly AP 551) | 3 | 516 | 284 | Yes | 16.9 | 3305-17oz |
Castrol Advanced Performance (formerly GT-LMA) | 4 | 509 (was 446) | 329 | Yes | 12 or 32 | 3308-Size |
My pick for brake fluid, even though its more expensive, and a little hard to get is Castrol SRF. The dry boiling point is not the highest, but the wet boiling point is. In a perfect world, no water would be in the braking system. In reality brake fluid is hygroscopic (it attracts water), and there is lot of water in the air we breathe.
4. Tires
Tires are the only things that touch the track. We would say that the single biggest thing that effect how the car works, are the tires. The wrong tires for the wrong job, will mean you fail to reach your full potential. Tires will be a complicated problem because there are compromises. The fastest tires on track, will also wear fastest. The longest lasting street tires, will preform fairly poorly on track. Now if it rains, the best tires in the dry, may be the worst tires in the wet (think slicks).
![]() |
18 x 10.5 +22 Volk Racing TE37SL . Toyo Proxes RS1. 285/680/18. 26.7 inches tall These slicks are just a little too big for the car at this ride height . A better size would have been the 285/650/18 which are 25.5 inches tall |
Generally I want the stickiest, widest tire possible under the car. The key being under the car. Not sticking outside of the body lines.
Tire pressures are set with hot pressures in mind. You want to have at a minimum a good tire pressure gage, and note your cold tire pressure when you start the day. Then after each session, measure hot tire pressures. I prefer a larger 0-60 psi gage that is liquid filled with a bleeder. That gives you a bit more accurate of pressure readings.
What wheels fit my R32 GT-R?
Can I run different sized tires on my Skyline GT-R?
16 inch tire options for OEM R32 GT-R Wheels
What wheels fit my R32 GT-R?
Can I run different sized tires on my Skyline GT-R?
16 inch tire options for OEM R32 GT-R Wheels
Wheel lug tightening torque for Nissan Skyline GT-R 98- 188 N-m (10-12 kg-m, 72-87 ft-lb)
Hub diameter 66.1 mm
5. Brakes
Stock R32 GT-R - Non Vspec

Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 324 x 30 mm front Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 300 x 22 mm rear Vspec N1 Brembo R34 rotors are 322 x 22 mm rea
OEM R32 GT-R 296 x 32 mm front OEM R32 GT-R 297 x 18 mm rear Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 324 x 30 mm front Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 300 x 22 mm rear Vspec N1 Brembo R34 rotors are 322 x 22 mm rear F40 Front and Rear rotors are 332 x 32 mm F50 Front rotors are 355 x 32(34?) mm R35 Early - Front 380 x 34 mm R35 Late - 390 x 32.6 mm (they went thinner) R35 rear - 380 mm x 30 mm
- Front -296 mm x 32 mm
- 40206-05U02 Right Front OEM Cross Drilled
- 40206-05U10 Right Front OEM Plain
- 40206-05U03 Left Front OEM Cross Drilled
- 40206-05U11 Left Front OEM Plain
- Rear- 297 mm x 18 mm
- 43206-05U13 Rear OEM Cross Drilled
- The OEM rotors are cross drilled. Eventually in the GT-R racing range they went to a solid rotor, because cross drilled rotors crack. For racing use, usually a different kind of surface treatment is popular(Plain, slotted, J-Hook). Cross drilling looks good, and works well enough on the street. I like a two piece rotor as they weigh less than a solid disk. You can save several pounds per corner by going to a aluminum hatted rotor.
- DBA has their 5000 series of rotors but not in the stock 296 mm size, just the 4000 series rotors (Front DBA 4926 296MM 4000 Series Heavy Duty.)(Rear DBA 908) Have to see if I can come up with anything, or do something like a bracket to put a larger rotor on the car. Larger rotors mean larger wheels, and I think I am sticking with the 16's. (I lied, I'm on R34 18" now) Brake Weights - R32 GT-R
- EBC Brake rotors ~$250 to $350 for a set - Front RK1226 ~$85-120 for a set Rear RK699

- DBA Front Rotors DBA4928
- DBA Two piece black and slotted DBA5928BLKS
- DBA Two piece gold hat DBA5928GLDS
- DBA Two piece gold drilled and slotted DBA5928GLDXS
- DBA Front Pads DB1520
6. Cooling
Cooling can depend on your ambient temperature and humidity. The hotter ambient is, the more humid it is, the less effective the cooling system is. On an RB26 there is a factory oil/water oil cooler. That cools the oil, but adds temperature to the coolant/water. Oil generally runs hotter than water. Radiator, Hoses, Coolant, Anti-Freeze, Water Pump information.
An RB26 is nearly oil cooled. 7 main caps, twin long cams, oil squirters, oil cooled pistons, turbos. Heat is introduced into the oil, and that heat needs to be rejected via an oil cooler. Big, and many seem to be the RB26 answer.
You probably need to run an aftermarket oil cooler. Bigger is better. If you are making a lot of power, then a lot of that power is turned into heat.
An RB26 is nearly oil cooled. 7 main caps, twin long cams, oil squirters, oil cooled pistons, turbos. Heat is introduced into the oil, and that heat needs to be rejected via an oil cooler. Big, and many seem to be the RB26 answer.
You probably need to run an aftermarket oil cooler. Bigger is better. If you are making a lot of power, then a lot of that power is turned into heat.
7. Suspension
Suspension. There are lot of parts to suspension. Some people use the term to only refer to the coil overs/shocks, but there are also suspension arms that encompass the term. Most Japanese brand coil overs are over sprung and underdamped. What this means is the springs are really stiff, and the control of the spring is not where it should be. While that setup may be fine on very smooth roads, or very smooth tracks, here in the US, we generally have neither.
In order for you to be able to control the car, the tires have to maintain contact with the road/track surface. If the car is so stiff that the tire is bouncing up and down, and not contacting the road, you will not have control. There are many reasons not to over lower a car, or to make it too stiff. Stiffness does not equate fast or good handling. We see all kinds of Chinese branded coil over crap sold to unknowing young buyers. When you are young you might be able to live with shitty suspension, but as you get older, and have a chance to try out cars with hundreds of setups, you will probably much prefer a real coil over, vs some eBay crap.
As far as brands go, we like Ohlins. There are different levels of Ohlins, the newest are the DFV, or dual flow valve setups. Ohlins does a good job of matching spring to damping.
Ride Height : Don't go too low. The suspension has to be able to compress to work and control the tire
Camber : The reason for camber, is not for you to fit the widest tire possible. Camber flattens out the tire as you are cornering. Too much camber negatively effects braking.
Toe : You have 10 of them. Or rather it is the direction the tire is pointing. Toe in, or toe out. Toe in make a car more stable, toe out makes it a little less stable. Toe being off is the biggest wear of a tire.
Caster : Shopping carts have casters. In a car it is self centering of the wheel, and steering effort related.
As far as adjustable parts go, if you don't know what they do, and how they interact with how the car handles, you might not want to mess with them. There are plenty of ways to adjust how a car handles, based on how you drive, and tire pressures, but lots of people want every piece of adjustable suspension component they can get, then leave it all stock settings. Don't be that guy.
Suspension and Alignment Settings : R32, R33, R34 GT-R
Suspension Parts : Nissan Skyline GT-R
R32 GT-R Chassis Bracing
MotoIQ : The Ultimate Guide to Suspension and Handling
Wheel Hop
As far as brands go, we like Ohlins. There are different levels of Ohlins, the newest are the DFV, or dual flow valve setups. Ohlins does a good job of matching spring to damping.
Ride Height : Don't go too low. The suspension has to be able to compress to work and control the tire
Camber : The reason for camber, is not for you to fit the widest tire possible. Camber flattens out the tire as you are cornering. Too much camber negatively effects braking.
Toe : You have 10 of them. Or rather it is the direction the tire is pointing. Toe in, or toe out. Toe in make a car more stable, toe out makes it a little less stable. Toe being off is the biggest wear of a tire.
Caster : Shopping carts have casters. In a car it is self centering of the wheel, and steering effort related.
As far as adjustable parts go, if you don't know what they do, and how they interact with how the car handles, you might not want to mess with them. There are plenty of ways to adjust how a car handles, based on how you drive, and tire pressures, but lots of people want every piece of adjustable suspension component they can get, then leave it all stock settings. Don't be that guy.
Suspension and Alignment Settings : R32, R33, R34 GT-R
Suspension Parts : Nissan Skyline GT-R
R32 GT-R Chassis Bracing
MotoIQ : The Ultimate Guide to Suspension and Handling
Wheel Hop
8. Alignment
Alignment, corner balancing are both very important things in making a car handle well. Most any shop can handle aligning a Nissan Skyline. The OEM specs are above. Once you get into a track car however, your alignment for the track, may/should be different than for a street car. Follow some of the MotoIQ information above to learn more about suspension and handling. I use Smart Strings to align my personal cars, and race cars I work on. This allows for a much more precise setup.
Corner balancing is done for cars with adjustable suspension. If you don't have aftermarket coil overs then you won't be corner balancing. If you do, then it is a critical step in making sure that the car is setup for the track. If you don't have the tools required, you have to find a shop that can help you properly corner balance your car.
So on the Proform scales:
- 3167 lbs R32 GT-R 1/2 tank of gas
- 3336 lbs R33 GT-R with no gas
- 3348 lbs R34 GT-R with 1/4 tank of gas
GT-R Alignment Specifications
BNR34 | BCNR33 | BNR32 | |
Front Camber | - 0deg 50’ +/-45’ | - 0deg 50’ +/-45’ | - 0deg 55’ +/-45’ |
Front Caster | 3deg 55’ +/- 45 ‘ | 3deg 55’ +/- 45 ‘ | 3deg 40’ +/- 45 ‘ |
Front Toe (mm) | 2~1 | 0~2 | 1 +/- 1 |
Front Kingpin | 15deg 20’ +/-45’ | 15deg 20’ +/-45’ | 15deg 25 +/-45’ |
Rear Camber | -1deg 15’ +/-30’ | -1deg 05’+/-45’ | -1deg 05’ +/-30’ |
Rear Toe (mm) | 4~0 | 0~5.2 | 2 +/-2 |
9. Oiling
![]() |
Pennzoil Racing 10w-60 |
This is a double edged sword. If the car is stock, you aren't on a crazy tire, and everything is in good order, then whatever the car has is probably fine. However...
Peter from Australia mentioned that I should let people know that the oil level should be filled to the bump/hump in the dipstick. We do talk about it in the basics and oil and filter change, but it might be missed. This overfill may help keep your oil pickup covered in oil. Very good idea for a near stock car that is tracked. Some pictures of oil pan level and that bump are here - https://www.gtrusablog.com/2019/08/rb26dett-oil-pan-testing-filling-it.html
Buy USA Legal R32, R33, and R34 Skylines at Toprank Importers!
Index and Start Page
Nissan Skyline Parts and Toys
Nissan Skyline Parts and Toys
Nut and Bolt
Nut and bolt is what we do to any car before we take it on track. It is a critical step to ensure that you have the minimal amount of mistakes or failures. You will hopefully save yourself a ton of time and effort if you just do some checking. You really want to touch, poke, prod, and shake everything on the car prior to going on track. You will find loose items, and fix them before they become an issue. Make sure you lift the car, and grab each wheel/tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and shake. Then grab them at 9 and 3 and shake. You are checking the condition of the wheel bearings, tie rods, and other suspension parts.
Nut and bolt involves taking wrenches, and other tools, and putting them on anything on the car that was touched, might fall off the car. So if you just replaced the brakes, then go back with a little clearer head, and double check them. Often what we do on race cars, is use two people, each with a paint marker that goes around the car, and puts a dot/mark on each nut or bolt they touch. Fast reference to make sure that you have the minimum amount of mistakes. We are all human, we all make mistakes, or miss a bolt.
The best paint marker we have tried and used, is the 1.8 mm to 2.5 mm Posca marker in Pink. Pink shows up on about anything. Easy to see, not expensive at about $5 each. Really worth it if you have things to mark.
11. Tow Hooks
Tow hooks are required for most track day event organizers. They want a safe, defined spot on your car, where they can move it, if it becomes disabled.
12. Fuel
Run good gas in your car. We could talk about octane, and octane requirements. But we just will say, run the good gas. Run the expensive gas. If you are blasting around the track, not paying attention to things like boost, or temperature, good gas may save your engine. So that few hundred dollars in the good stuff, may save you a $5k engine rebuild. If E85 is available, I recommend running it.
13. Modifications
These are entirely optional. There are a metric fuckton of things you can do to a Nissan Skyline to make it preform better, or perhaps worse on track. Yes really. You really can make it worse. If you don't know the hows and whys of a modification, you should seek some help, or guidance. Aka low is good, so lower is better?
14. Track Instructional Videos
![]() |
The Scion tc lined up for World Challenge touring car in 2009 at Laguna Seca |
No comments:
Post a Comment